In this post I guide trough Aix-en-Provence a city at the heart of Provence
Aix-en-Provence, the name, is like music to my ears. I had dreamed of going to Aix many times, and I finally made it a reality. While studying 2 days a week at the University of Aix, I never had time to wander the streets of Aix even after my classes.
Every weekend, I plan to explore the Provence, Côte d’Azur region and take the train to visit places. I decided to visit Aix on a Sunday. My walk, took me along the Cours Mirabeau and the elegant squares lined with plane trees and baroque mansions.
Aix has long been Marseille’s biggest rival, a town for the middle classes and luxury boutiques. Tourists are gathering from all over the world to follow in the footsteps of Cézanne in town. Aix, compared to Marseille, has a different vibe. It’s calmer and very elegant, with poised people walking along the Cours Mirabeau.
I have to say, the city mesmerised me, and I loved the alignment of the ochre and terracotta buildings. The mix of Italian and French Renaissance architecture transported me back in time.
I don’t know if it is because it was a Sunday, but I had the feeling of walking in a daydream. What I’m presenting here is the old city centre. The outskirts are like any other modern city, constructions with bland architecture.
I'd like to introduce you to Aix-En-Provence.
The town after Paris and Versaille is 3rd on France's list of Baroque cities. I'm a magnet for Baroque architecture, and walking around Aix was a feast for the eyes. This town has over 100 fountains, and the old city centre has a beautiful architectural unity. As you walk along palaces, mansions, and church buildings, you can sense the past glory of that city.
However, Aix has more to offer than its architecture. Aix is sometimes considered too quiet, but the student population counterbalances that reputation.
A City of Art and Culture
A city with art and culture. Cezanne, one of my favourite painters, was born in Aix, and his influence is still felt throughout the city. You can follow Cezanne's footsteps in town by following the street marks. Look for an app called Cezanne on your phone. You will also find 10 Cezanne’s paintings in the Musée Granet.
Don't miss Cezanne's studio; it is temporarily closed, but add this to your list of places to visit from 2025. Its only 20 minutes walk away from the view of the Montagne Ste Victoire, made famous in his paintings.
The Mazarin Headquarters
Caumont Centre d'Art, a mansion transformed into a cultural spotlight open for visits. The courtyard, the staircase, and the music lounge are the highlights of your visit. This building built in 1714 and is one of the most beautiful in town.
Place des 4 Dauphins
A fountain in the middle of a square surrounded by 18th-century mansions.
The Musée Granet
The museum presents its permanent art collection across two buildings. Nordic, French and Italian Renaissance paintings in one room. Another room dedicated to 19th-century Provence painters with 10 of Cezanne's paintings.
The Vibrant Markets
A visit to Aix would only be complete with exploring its famous markets. Cours, Mirabeau has a flew market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Explore daily food markets on Place Richelme and flower market Place de l'hôtel de Ville.
Enjoy town like a local
One of the best ways to experience the true essence of Aix en Provence is by indulging in the local cafe culture. Choose one of the restaurants or cafés along the Cours Mirabeau to watch the world go by. There's also an English book and coffee shop called the Bookinbar
Day Trips
Aix is also an excellent base for exploring the wider Provence region. Aim to visit the Luberon landscapes, the Alpilles villages, and the city of Marseille. (read about Marseille here)
Culinary Delights
Provencal cuisine is a name for fresh and vibrant flavours, and Aix is the perfect place to sample it. Local specialties include ratatouille, bouillabaisse, and aioli. Be sure to try the Calissons, a traditional almond-based sweet local favourite.
Where to eat:
I had lunch at Restaurant le Mirabeau on the cours; I managed to find a table outdoors with a view of the boulevard. I took the "suggestion du jour" Lote fillet served with lentils, a perfect treat to accommodate my gluten-free diet.
Aix-en-Provence is a city that captivate my heart. Whether wandering its markets, admiring the architecture, or indulging on Provencal cuisine. Aix is a place that invites you to slow down and savour the moment. So why not let Aix be your introduction to the enchanting world of Provence?
