Hello readers, I'm enjoying our weekly meet-up through this newsletter. Talking about photography, art, travel, and Bridget Jones (kidding).
This week I want to share my Berlin trip with you. Berlin is a city I have a strong connection to. I'm not sure why. Although I suspect it's down to its "colourful" past. If you're planning a short visit to Berlin, this might give you some ideas.
I grew up in the 70s, at the height of the Cold War. As a child, I was oblivious to the implications of living under the Iron Curtain. I apologise in advance to those who endured the hardships of that era.
Travelling to countries behind the Iron Curtain felt like an adventure and a spy game to me. It was during my teenage years that I became determined to visit Berlin. My history teacher almost took us on a trip that didn’t happen. My first visit to the ex-communist bloc was during the summer of 1993. I travelled to Prague and Bratislava. The locals thought my obsession with the Cold War was odd. It was clear that I was living in some Cold War movie fantasy.
My First Trips to Berlin
In 1994, I visited Berlin for the first time. The moment I stepped into Berlin, the 80s nostalgia came kicking in. It felt like travelling through time. The first thing I did was head east. I saw Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain, and the old Tempelhof Airport. I loved this 1930s art deco building, but it also reminded me of darker times.
On my first visit, I wanted to explore the Berlin Wall. I was disappointed to find that a lot of effort had been made to hide it. I walked to Potsdamer Platz, the old no-man's-land, which was busy with construction. You could feel the big changes coming over.
Berlin presented a fascinating blend of contrasting narratives. Cold War reminders were everywhere, set against the rise of a new megacity.
I recall that West Berlin had its downsides too. The reputation of the lost kids of the 80s and the movie "Christiane F." showed a darker side of capitalism. The film features West Berlin in the 80s, filled with drug use and prostitution. One couldn't help but question the reasons behind West Berlin's tarnished reputation. Was it Russian propaganda?
When I returned in 2019, I found a city that had changed completely. It let go of its past divisions and embraced a new, united identity. With lots of modern buildings and a Potsdamer Platz, I could not recollect from my first time when it was still a building site.
My latest visit to Berlin
I spent the rest of the two days rediscovering Berlin. I walked to Oberbaumbrücke and the East Side Gallery. This is a long stretch of the Berlin Wall that's covered in paintings. Some of the artwork has been there since 1990, though many artists have restored a lot over the years. The "Fraternal Kiss" painting of Brezhnev and Honecker is still here and as bold. From there I walked to Brandenburg Gate, the most symbolic monument of Berlin. I couldn't remember which way the horse's carriage was facing when the wall was up. Walking underneath the gate, I arrived at Pariser Platz and Unter den Linden. The part of Berlin that was in the East indeed had a full view of the front of the Chariot.
I took the S-bahn to visit the Helmut Newton Foundation and the 20 Years About Berlin photo exhibition at the photography museum. You can read about it here.
On my second day, I explored Checkpoint Charlie. Somehow, the number of tourists visiting Berlin in winter surprised me. I was not alone wandering the streets of the German capital. I had a crazy moment walking by the Bundestag on Leipziger Str. wondering why it was not in Bonn??? That is what I call a weird moment! Nearby was an outdoor photo exhibition about the GDR 1953 uprising, which I had never heard about. It was quite moving to read about it.
I continued to walk towards Checkpoint Charlie. Nothing had changed since I was here last time. I tried to recall how the British, French, Russians, and Americans divided the city. My cousin Fabrice had spent a year here doing his military service in the city in the late 80s. He never talked about it, but it must have been quite an experience.
I walked to the Reichstag and the Holocaust memorial. I took the stairs to walk up the Reichstag Dome for a view over Berlin. For a great view of Berlin, also check out the Fernsehturm and the Siegessäule, also known as the Victory Column. There is no lift there and you will have to walk up 285 steps, but the view is worth it.
Neighborhoods to explore next time.
I only had a short time to visit some of Berlin's coolest neighbourhoods. Next time, I’ll definitely spend more time in these areas:
Prenzlauer Berg
I walked through Prenzlauer Berg for a bit but soon regretted leaving. This former East Berlin neighbourhood has completely transformed since reunification. It has charming old buildings that made it through the war bombings.
Some spots that caught my eye:
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Mauerpark - is where the wall divided the city between Wedding and Prenzlauer Berg. On the weekend, there is a flea market.
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Kulturbrauerei - An old brewery converted into a cultural centre with events and food.
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Kollwitzplatz the heart of the neighbourhood. With cafés and a weekend market.
Friedrichshain
This area is right next to the East Side Gallery, but I didn't have enough time to explore it in detail. It's got this gritty, artistic vibe that feels like what Berlin is all about.
Places I want to check out next time:
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Simon-Dach-Straße - the Greenwich Village of Berlin, with an air of boho.
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Boxhagener Platz - a flea market hunting ground.
Berlin is a city like London where there's always something new to uncover. Despite my fourth visit, I still have areas to explore. Which means planning another trip and spending more time exploring the east part of town.
Your turn to visit Berlin!
So that was my 48 hours in Berlin! Planning a trip, even a short one, is easy. My biggest tip would be to group your activities by area to minimise travel time. And definitely grab a day pass for public transport—it makes getting around super easy.
Have you been to Berlin recently? I'd love to hear your experiences or recommendations in the comments. And if you're heading there soon and have questions, drop them below! I'm already planning my return trip and would love to swap notes.
For a whole list of monuments to visit, here is a list from the Berlin visitor centre.
Films featuring Berlin:
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Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders
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The Life of Others by Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck
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Run Lola Run by Tom Tykwer
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Christiane F. by Uli Edel
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Goodbye Lenin by Wolfgang Becker
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Atomic Blonde by David Leitch
Books set in Berlin
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Alone in Berlin – Hans Fallada
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Every man dies alone - Hans Fallada
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Berlin - Jason Lutes
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The innocent- Ian Mc Ewan
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Grand Hotel - Vicky Baum
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Berlin Alexanderplatz - Alfred Doblin
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