Why Nancy Should Be Your Next French City Break

Have you ever heard of Nancy, a town in North-Eastern France? The North-East of France often gets neglected for more famous French cities. In this post I’m inviting you to go beyond the French town clichés and explore the région of Lorraine. This is a région that has suffered a lot of drawbacks. Getting divided between France and Germany. Experiencing the industrial and mining decline in the 80s. Some places have similar industrial landscapes to the North of England. The economic decline in the region has created a lot of resentment. But nearby Luxembourg and the dynamism of towns like Metz and Nancy bring a new vibe to the region. Next time you plan a trip to France, make time to explore lesser-known regions like Lorraine. The région of Lorraine has a lot of treasures, and one of them is the town of Nancy.

Nancy is a medium-sized city in North-Eastern France. It also serves as the capital of Lorraine. Home to ancient duchies and kingdoms alike, Nancy has risen to 16th on the list of towns with a 100k population. But that's not all! I'm inviting you to Nancy also called "Little Paris".

Nancy became a border between France and Germany after the 1870 war. Due to its rivalry with German-annexed Metz, Nancy was built in a French excellence style.

If you visit the city during spring and Summer time. Take the Petit Train; it offers a relaxed way to discover the old town. The ride lasts 45 minutes and is perfect to give you an overview of places that you want to visit by foot.

Nancy is a city I crossed paths with a few times; I lived there for my studies in the late 80s. I became a distance-learning student of English at the University of Nancy. I love wandering its streets. So, I took my children to visit the town during Christmas and New Year.

on a Saturday morning we took the two-hours train from Strasbourg. It was bitterly cold and sunny when we got off the train. A mere change from the fog we had for days in Alsace. We headed straight to Place Stanislas. I'm always in awe when I step foot on this square. When we arrived, we heard cheering and clapping. People were celebrating a newlywed couple coming out of the beautiful town hall.

Stanislas Square: the jewel of Nancy

The square is a pure delight, registered by UNESCO; it's one of the most beautiful in the world. Before you start moving around the square, take a moment to enjoy its architecture and gold décor. Stand at one corner for the best view.

Architect Emmanuel Heré designed the square. They built it to glorify French King Louis the XVth between 1751 and 1755. The square was commissioned by Stanislas Leszczynski, a Polish king who became Duke of Lorraine. The buildings around the square are:

• The Opera
• The Hôtel de Ville
• Museum of Beaux-Arts
• The Fountains.

We walked beyond the square towards the arch Hérè and the beautiful Square de la Carrière built in the XVIth century. There was a small Christmas market on the square. There was also a small ice rink. We observed the kids trying to find their balance with their red ice-skating shoes while skating around.

Stop before you start walking towards the Palais du Gourvernement. When the place is empty you are standing in front of an mazing panorama. At the end of the square, you will find the entrance to the Parc de la Pépinière. This is the biggest parc in town. There's a beautiful rose garden in the middle where you will find blooming roses during June.

Rue des Maréchaux

Further along the Square Vaudemont is a pedestrian street with lots of restaurants and cafés. This street is also known as rue Gourmande, with a plethora of restaurants next to each other. What's not to love about a street with many restaurants? It has French, Thai, Japanese, and Indian cuisines. It will make any foodie wander from menu to menu. Some restaurant owners will press you to choose theirs. We had the best lunch at La Gentilhommière. Their menu starts as low as €27.00 per person! They cook everything themselves and their portions are very generous. With a wonderful mix of tastes, you're sure to find something that will meet your appetite!

How do I get to Nancy?

Nancy is only 90 minutes from Paris by TGV; the city is easy to reach by car via the A31 motorway. You can also get there with a quick flight at Metz-Nancy Lorraine Regional Airport.

Nancy, the capital of Lorraine in France, is a bustling city. It's known as "the little Paris." It has all the charm of that famous city without being too big or overwhelming. From food to culture to shopping, this charming town offers something for everyone! If you're looking for a new spot on your European vacation, consider Nancy. You won't regret it! Combine it with a visit to Metz and Luxembourg or the Vosges.

For a change of scenery, consider exploring the beautiful Vosges Mountains. Hike through fir tree forests, visit traditionnal villages, and enjoy stunning views. The Ballons des Vosges Regional Natural Park offers numerous trails for all levels.

Places to see in Nancy:

• Place Stanislas (UNESCO World Heritage Site)

  • Why Visit: This grand square, commissioned by Stanislas Leszczyński, is one of the most famous in Europe. Admire the ornate iron gates, the central statue of Stanislas, and the 18th-century architecture.

  • Nearby Attractions: Stop by the Musée des Beaux-Arts for an impressive art collection and the Opéra National de Lorraine for a glimpse into Nancy’s cultural scene.

• The Palais du Gouvernement is the official house of the Préfet of Meurthe-et-Moselle. It is a fine example of 18th-century architecture. The site is located on Place Stanislas and welcomes the public for tours.

• The Hôtel de Ville is Nancy's city hall. It's a beautiful 18th-century building. The museum is located on Place Stanislas and also welcomes the public for tours.

• The Musée des Beaux-Arts: It holds a collection of European art from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. It is located on Place Stanislas and is open to the public for a fee.

• The Jardin Botanique: This botanical garden is home to over 20,000 plants from all over the world. It is located in the Parc de la Bouffay and is open to the public for a fee.

• Nancy Cathedral (Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Annonciation)

  • Why Visit: Dating back to the 18th century, Nancy Cathedral is a fine example of Baroque and Classical styles merged into a grand religious structure. With a tranquil interior, striking stained-glass windows, and ornate details, it’s a peaceful retreat in the city center.

• Place de la Carrière and Place d’Alliance

  • Why Visit: These two elegant squares, connected to Place Stanislas, extend the city’s UNESCO-listed ensemble. Their symmetry, classical façades, and leafy promenades provide a charming backdrop for a leisurely stroll.

• Parc de la Pépinière

  • Why Visit: Just north of Place Stanislas, this large park is perfect for a relaxing walk. Families will appreciate the small zoo area, playgrounds, and the lush flowerbeds.

Nearby:

• La cristallerie de Baccarat: This is the original Baccarat crystal factory. You can see the crystal-making process and buy beautiflul crystal glasses and jewellery. You can find it at 80 Rue des Cristalleries, 54120 Baccarat, France. More information is on their website:

• Metz: Metz is a city in France's Lorraine region. Known for its beautiful architecture and history. It is home to the Metz Cathedral, one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in France. It is also home to the Centre Pompidou-Metz, a modern art museum. Architects Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines designed it.

• Luxembourg: Luxembourg is the capital of Luxembourg. It has medieval architecture and a beautiful countryside. It is home to the Palace of the Grand Dukes, the official house of the Grand Duke of Luxembourg. It is also home to the Adolphe Bridge, one of the largest arch bridges in the world.

Additional tips:

• If you visit Nancy in summer, check out the Nancy Jazz Festival. It's one of the largest jazz festivals in France.

• If you visit Nancy in winter, check out its Christmas market.

• If you visit Metz, check out the Musée de la Cour d'Or. It has a collection of medieval art

• f you visit Luxembourg, check out the Grund. It's a historic neighbourhood in the city's lower part.

Local Specialties and Sweet Treats

• Quiche Lorraine is one of the region's most iconic dishes. It has a savoury egg batter filling, cream (or crème fraîche), and lardons (bacon). You’ll find it served with a green salad at many brasseries and bakeries around the city.

• Bergamotes de Nancy. These square, translucent candies flavour bergamot orange. They are a symbol of Nancy's confectionery tradition. They’re a lovely souvenir to bring home or to enjoy with tea.

• Mirabelle Plums Lorraine’s Mirabelle plums (yellow and sweet) are in season in late summer. You can try them in tarts, jams, or as an eau-de-vie (fruit brandy).

• Pâté Lorrain is a traditional pâté in puff pastry. It is filled with marinated pork and veal (sometimes rabbit), enhanced by wine and herbs. It’s hearty, aromatic, and a staple in local bakeries or charcuteries.

• The Famous Macarons des Soeurs Nancy's macarons date to the late 18th century. They were created by two nuns seeking refuge in the city. They prepared a simple recipe based on almonds, sugar, and egg whites. Today, these soft, chewy macarons are called "Macarons des Soeurs" (or "Macarons de Nancy"). You can buy them at several pâtisseries in town. One of the most historic makers is Maison des Soeurs Macarons.

Recommended Restaurants

• Here are a few ideas to get you started:

  • Brasserie L’Excelsior

    • One of my favourite places in Nancy. When I lived in Nancy, I used to go there for breakfast. It felt like having breakfast in a five start hotel before starting the workday. Waiters are in the traditional garçon uniform. This brasserie near the train station is in an Art Nouveau gem. It serves classic French dishes, including Quiche Lorraine. It has a beautiful, historic setting.

  • La Table du Bon Roi Stanislas

    • This Michelin star restaurant is named after Stanislas Leszczyński. He was the former King of Poland and Duke of Lorraine. It serves regional dishes made with local ingredients. Try their refined takes on traditional recipes.

  • Le Cap Marine

    • If you’re looking for seafood, this restaurant offers fresh catches with a modern twist. It’s a good option if you want a break from heavier fare.

  • Restaurant La Primatiale

    • This restaurant, in a charming alley near Nancy's cathedral, specialises in creative French cuisine. It uses seasonal produce.

  • Les Fils à Maman Nancy:

  • This restaurant serves traditional French home-cooked food cuisine.

Salon de Thé Citron

If you fancy a sweet craving, Salon de Thé Citron is a must-visit. This cosy tea room offers:

• A Charming atmosphere
• Quality Teas and Coffees: Choose from a variety of teas (black, green, herbal) or specialty coffees to pair with pastries or snacks.
• Their artisan pastries. I tried their delicious citron pastry without the genoise. It was pure delight. It had a lemony flavour and enough sugar to not overpower the lemon. Remarkably amazing
• Friendly Service: The staff are happy to help you choose a tea to complement your dessert. They can also advise on local specialties if you want to explore.

Let me know if you have any questions about visiting Lorraine in the comments