Forget what you think you know about Spain’s Costa Brava. While much of the coastline surrendered to mass tourism decades ago, there’s one white-washed village that seems frozen in time. In this post I am sharing about Cadaqués The Hidden Gem of The Costa Brava. Cadaquès is a former fishing village turned artistic haven, has managed to preserve its soul where others lost theirs to hotel blocks and package holidays.
Finding Paradise
As a kid, I had always heard of the famous Costa Brava, where everyone used to go on all-inclusive holidays. It didn’t sound glamorous, but it was a place to holiday, enjoy sunny beaches, and have lots of fun. I first heard of Cadaquès when I was driving with a friend from Nîmes, where I used to live, to Barcelona. I found a new side of the Costa Brava. I fell in love with it. This was the northern part of the Costa Brava near the French border. It had avoided the widespread destruction of traditional houses and villages, which were often replaced by hotel blocks. Few places survived the destruction frenzy of the ’70s and ’80s, but Cadaqués is one of them. Perhaps it was Salvador Dalí, living nearby in Port Lligat, who made a difference.
A Place that Makes Time Stand Still
The town’s unique geography, protected by the Pyrenees, creates an atmosphere that feels almost otherworldly. The bright light reflects off the white buildings and clear waters in a way that’s unlike anywhere else. Walking the streets up the hills will make you want to settle there – Cadaqués could be another St-Tropez but without the glitz and glamour. I much prefer its more low-key vibe to the full sparkle of the French Riviera.
Despite the crowds, I still felt at peace as I walked the narrow streets towards my hotel. There’s something about this place that makes you want to slow down and seize the day. If you take a walk towards Cap de Creus, you’ll have a beautiful panorama over the bay and the white houses, each view making you fall a little more in love with the place.
Modern Cadaqués
I returned this May to find the place bustling with French weekend tourists. One local explained that while the French weren’t always welcomed, times have changed. The transformation is evident in places like Joia Ice Cream Parlour, where I discovered flavors I’d never imagined – Litchies and Rose, Black Truffle, and Olive Oil and Basilic.
The food scene here has evolved beyond typical Spanish tapas, with innovative chefs reimagining local ingredients. At Oli Bar, housed in what must have been a cave-like food warehouse, I experienced dining that felt Michelin-starred without the pretense. The menu featured clever combinations like tuna with cauliflower and caviar or wagyu beef with coffee salsa – trust me, it sounds even better in Spanish.
Each morning, I’d follow the same routine: walking down the paved streets to my regular café for eggs, bacon, and café con leche. These simple moments made me feel less like a tourist and more like someone who belonged.
Living the Dream (Maybe)
At some point, I even contemplated living there, but reality has its demands – crossing mountains for groceries or catching trains for basic errands isn’t exactly practical. But those 2-3 winter months? That dream feels perfectly achievable.
Port Lligat: Dalí’s Creative Haven
Just a short walk from Cadaqués centre lies Port Lligat, where Dalí purchased a small fisherman’s cottage in 1930. Over the years he expanded this humble cottage into a more elaborate residence that reflects his art. The house, now a museum, offers an intimate glimpse into Dalí’s daily life and creative process.
The property features egg-shaped sculptures dotting the landscape, a swimming pool shaped like a phallus, and rooms filled with the artist’s personal collection of curiosities. From the terrace, visitors can gaze out at the same Mediterranean vista that inspired countless Dalí paintings, including the famous melting clocks of “The Persistence of Memory.”
Planning Your Visit
Cadaqués is best discovered on foot, with boat trips available to explore Cap de Creus. In the evenings, find a spot by the sea at Maritim Bar and watch the world go by. The journey here is part of the experience – take a train to Figueres and then a bus through winding mountain roads to reach this hidden paradise.
And yes, this is where Salvador Dalí chose to live and work, attracting other artists like Marcel Duchamp, Matisse, Picasso, and even rock stars like Mick Jagger and Sting. But that’s just part of the story – Cadaqués’s real magic lies in how it makes everyone who visits feel like they’ve discovered their own secret corner of the world.
Have you found your own hidden gem along the Mediterranean? I’d love to hear about your discoveries in the comments below.
