In this post, I guide you to Discover Marseille: A Local’s Guide to Its Best Neighbourhoods
You either love or loathe Marseille. Like Naples, it’s a city with many contrasts, a city that can polarise opinions. In this Post I help you Discover Marseille by sharing the best neighbourhouds.
I can’t quite put my finger on it, but I find something about this city irresistible. Perhaps it’s the discovery that my Italian grandfather was stationed here during World War Two. I often find myself walking the streets, wondering if he once walked the same paths.
I discovered Marseille as a kid through the black-and-white movies of Marcel Pagnol, Marius, Fanny, and Cesar. When my aunt moved to Corsica, I visited her with my parents when I was nine. We took the train to get down to the Mediterranean coast. It was the first time I would see the seaside. We had to change trains in Marseille St Charles. I will never forget my dad talking to an old guy with a sailor’s cap sitting on a bench while my mum was trying to get information for our connecting train to Nice, where we would take the boat to Corsica.
In my 20s, I don’t know how I ended up meeting a guy from Marseille who wanted me to move in with him after I had known him for 48 hours. His mum was so worried about the whole situation that she called me. I had to reassure her that I wouldn’t make any hasty decisions and didn’t move to Marseille.
I followed the Marseille football club (OM) during Bernard Tapie’s eponymous period as their manager. Even if he drowned the club in fraud, he made it magical.
Marseille has always been in my heart, and finally, I’m living in this city. In this post, I will share my favourite areas with you.
Before we dive into the neighbourhoods, let’s address the elephant in the room: Marseille’s reputation. This city has often been misunderstood, with media portrayals sometimes focusing on negative aspects. However, the reality is far more nuanced:
- Cultural Melting Pot: Marseille’s diversity is its strength. Marseille is one of France’s oldest cities and a significant port. It has always been a crossroads of cultures, creating a unique and vibrant cultural mix
- Safety Concerns: While Marseille, like any big city, has its rough areas, most neighbourhoods are safe and welcoming. Common-sense precautions allow you to enjoy the city securely. Leaving your belongings on the beach unattended is not recommended. I’ve met some Germans walking around town in their towels and swimsuits; all their bags had gone.
- In recent years, Marseille has seen significant urban renewal projects including the European Capital of Culture designation in 2013, revitalising many areas mainly around the port.
- Warm Hospitality: Marseillais are known for their frankness, warmth, and hospitality. Don’t be surprised if a local offers directions unprompted.
- Beyond bouillabaisse, Marseille is a foodie’s paradise, with influences from Mediterranean, African, and Middle Eastern cuisines.
1 -Le Panier
Le Panier is one of the oldest districts of Marseille. Climbing up the hilly streets of the hills, you can imagine the Italians, Corsicans, Algerians, and Vietnamese walking these streets; many sailors also used to live in this area, which has kept some authentic Marseille. A large part was destroyed by the Nazis when they occupied France.
Nowadays, the Panier has been gentrified, and you will meet many tourists walking the hills of Le Panier. I love wandering in Le Panier; there’s a different vibe here. There are lots of bistros where you can dine al fresco, sitting on the streets and dining surrounded by locals and tourists alike.
Here’s what you shouldn’t miss:
- Place de Lenche: Grab a pastis at one of the terrace cafes and watch local life unfold.
- Centre de la Vieille Charité: This former almshouse is now a cultural centre with fascinating exhibitions.
- Street art: Spot the vibrant murals that bring the old walls to life.
2- Le Vieux Port
Le Vieux-Port: Where History Meets Modernity. The heart of Marseille, Le Vieux-Port, has been the city’s lifeline for 2,600 years. Today, it’s a perfect blend of old-world architecture and contemporary flair:
- Fishermen sell fresh fish directly from their boats every morning.
- Norman Foster’s Ombrière: This mirrored canopy offers a unique perspective on the port.
- Quai des Belges: Stroll along the waterfront and soak in the lively atmosphere.
- South of the Vieux-Port, behind Quai de Rive-Neuve, you’ll find the Ilot Thiars. This area is lively on weekends and evenings with many Irish and English bars, cafes, and restaurants.
3- La Pointe Rouge: A Beach Lover’s Paradise
You can take the ferry boat from the Vieux-Port between April and September to join the Pointe Rouge. It’s also a short bus ride from the city centre. La Pointe Rouge is where The Marseillais go to escape for the weekend. It’s a place to
- Relax on the sandy shore or take a swim.
- Watch (or join) the locals as they sail into the bay.
- Enjoy a fresh catch of the day with stunning sea views.
- Sit at a café, watch the passers-by, enjoy the sunshine, and look at the seaside, chill out.
4-L’Estaque: Cézanne’s Muse
This former fishing village, immortalised by painters like Cézanne and Braque, retains its charming character:
- Port de l’Estaque: Watch the colourful fishing boats in the harbour.
- Panisse and chichis frégis: Don’t leave without trying these local specialities!
Hidden gem: Hike up to the Batterie de la Cride for panoramic views of the bay and the Côte Bleue.
5.Castellane: Where Old Meets New
This district showcases Marseille’s evolution from its ancient roots to a modern metropolis where you can
- Admire the ornate fountain at the centre of Place Castellane.
- Shop like a local on rue de Rome.
- Every Tuesday and Thursday morning, dive into the Prado colourful open-air market.
Local favourite: Marou is a caterer that sells food and wine delicacies. Try the lavender cheese and one of their local goat cheeses. They also have a patisserie where you can indulge on the Rose Marcaron and more.
6- Notre-Dame de la Garde: Marseille’s Eternal Guardian
No visit to Marseille is complete without a pilgrimage to Notre Dame de la Garde, also known to locals as “La Bonne Mère” (The Good Mother). Try to climb on foot while you can take a tourist bus or drive up. Start from the Vieux-Port. The steep but rewarding walk offers unique city views as you go up. Once on top, the Roman-Byzantine basilica provides 360-degree views of Marseille, the Mediterranean, and the surrounding landscapes. For centuries, sailors, fishermen, and locals have looked to La Bonne Mère for protection.
Les Calanques: Nature’s Masterpiece
Go beyond Marseille to explore the breathtaking Calanques, a series of limestone cliffs and hidden coves stretching along the coastline:
- Calanque de Sormiou: One of the most famous spots for turquoise waters and a small beach. I went to take a walk to the Calanque from Marseille Baumettes. The path is marked, and you’ve got the option to walk down via the road or the path that is shorter but has more challenging terrain.
- Calanque d’En-Vau: Often called the most beautiful Calanque, it’s a paradise for hikers and rock climbers.
- Calanque de Sugiton: A bit less crowded, it offers stunning views and great swimming spots.
Local wisdom: The calanques are best explored by foot or kayak. Start early in the morning to beat the heat and crowds, especially during summer. Check local regulations; access can be restricted during fire season (usually July-September). Bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and sturdy shoes for hiking.
Corniche Kennedy: Marseille’s Spectacular Seaside Promenade
The Corniche Kennedy, named after the 35th U.S. President, is a 5-kilometre stretch of coastal road that epitomises the Marseillais way of life:
- Breathtaking Views: As you stroll, drive, or cycle along the Corniche, you’ll be treated to stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea, the Frioul archipelago, and the Château d’If.
- Local Life: The Marseillais come here to jog, picnic, sunbathe, and enjoy the sea breeze. On weekends, it’s a lively spectacle of local life.
- Architectural Gems: Look for the ornate 19th-century villas that line parts of the Corniche, testaments to Marseille’s prosperous past.
- Vallon des Auffes: Halfway along the Corniche, take advantage of this tiny, picturesque fishing port beneath the road. It’s home to some of the city’s best bouillabaisse restaurants.
- Prado Beaches: At the southern end of the Corniche, you’ll find Marseille’s famous city beaches, perfect for a swim or a game of pétanque.
Local Tip: For an unforgettable experience, time your visit to catch the sunset. Find a spot on one of the benches facing the sea, or join the locals sitting on the rocks.
Marseille is a city of contrasts where each neighbourhood tells its unique story. By exploring these diverse districts and natural wonders, you’ll discover the true essence of our beloved city. History, culture, and natural beauty intertwine in this place to create an unforgettable experience. Profitez-en bien!
Places to eat:
in Le panier
Terre et Mer. They serve cheeses, Pata Negra ham and seafood platters.
Au Coeur du Panier: A small bistro with a small menu mainly featuring fish as mains.
Latte: A small restaurant with a delightful mix of textures
La Pépite is open for lunch and Breakfast, 100% gluten-free. A Gluten-free bakery and café serving salads, sandwiches and delicious patisseries
Don’t miss
I discovered an amazing shop in Marseille called Maison L’Empereur. This place is like my dream shop. It sells cookware, crockery, bakeware, and natural detergents. To walk in the shop makes me giddy with joy. This shop is one of the oldest hardware, drugstore, lifestyle shops in France; it was set up in 1827. They also sell clothing brands like St James and even jewellery.
