Living in the South of France has its perks. I can easily take a train to explore places I’ve always wanted to see like Villefranche or Beaulieu sur Mer. Reading a post about Hyères-les-Palmiers by Betty Carlson author of France in Between, renewed my interest in exploring this town again.
I visited Hyères before when I was a teenager. My parents had booked a place near the port. At the time I didn’t care much about visiting the town, I was more interested by the boys playing volley-ball on the beach. I started a conversation with one of them, we planned to meet up the next day, but then my parents realised we had to leave the flat that day. I was so frustrated and sulked all day, refusing to eat while we were driving to a new destination. It feels strange reading this, but at the time it was a huge deal. I can’t believe that episode stayed with me. Going back to Hyères was a way to come to terms with that story and finally explore the old town.
I took the train, on a Saturday morning, as usual it was delayed due to an unattended luggage in Toulon. Walking from the station to the old town, I saw 19th-century villas with beautiful architectural details and ornate balconies. Their grand style from the 1900s sparked my curiosity. The name Victoria Road gave me a clue. I discovered that Hyères was one of the first resort towns on the French Riviera. 19th-century European aristocrats and artists wintered in Hyères for its mild climate. Queen Victoria was there, Robert Louis Stevenson wrote a few books while in Hyères.
The Old Town
I walked to the old town, recognising the spirit of Italy in the colourful walls. The terracotta, ochre, and yellow colours of the sunshine. Growing up in Northeastern France, surrounded by light-coloured houses, I’m drawn to the sunny colours of the South. The old town has a lot of independent shops. I found grocery shop with outdoor displays of fruits and vegetables, clothes shops that seem stuck in the 1950s, vintage stores and some artisans stores.
When you finished touring the signed “parcours des arts” keep walking uphill towards the ruins of the castle and the Villa Noailles.
The Villa Noaillles
The villa was commissioned in the 1920s by Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles and designed by Robert Mallet-Stevens. The construction began in 1923 and continued through 1933, resulting in a unique structure that blends geometric forms with functional design. It became a gathering place for creatives like Man Ray, Salvador Dalí, and Jean Cocteau.Man Ray filmed his surrealist film “Les Mystères du Château de Dé” at the villa. The garden, designed by Gabriel Guevrekian, features geometric patterns.
During my tour, I found a local peony market. I discovered that many growers are in La Crau, near Hyères. I would have loved to buy some flowers, but they would have wilted by the time I got home.
I can’t mention Hyères without the coast. Just a short distance away is the Presqu’île de Giens, a sandbar connecting an island to the mainland, giving you access to gorgeous beaches.
From Hyères you can travel by boat the îles de Hyères also know as les Îles d’Or – Porquerolles, Port-Cros, and Le Levant. They feel like a different world, just a short ferry ride away. Porquerolles is the most well-known, with stunning beaches and a charming village. Port-Cros is a national park, perfect for hiking and snorkelling in crystal-clear waters. Le Levant is a naturist island, so do your research if you’re planning a visit!
I hope you enjoyed this visit of Hyères with me. Has anyone else been to Hyères? Drop your favorite spots in the comments – I’m already planning a return trip to explore the islands.
PS. I came to terms with my teenage story in Hyères long ago. I had actually forgotten about it until I heard the name Hyères again. I guess I stored it somewhere in my brain, waiting to re-emerge.
