Discovering Arles: A Hidden Gem Beyond the Photography Festival

I first came to Arles over 14 years ago. It was during the international Rencontres d’Arles photography festival. I haven’t set foot in Arles since but never forgot the impression the town had on me. I fell in love with the city at first sight. I used to live in Nîmes when I was in my twenties, but I never visited Arles during that time. Nîmes, another Roman Empire heritage town, felt like enough. To be honest, I didn’t give enough time to wonder beyond Nimes. Except for some seaside escapes, like Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer or La Grande Motte in summer.

The Arles photography festival has been around since 1970. Every July, this Provençal town becomes the hub of contemporary photography. It attracts artists, fans, and travellers from around the world.

In this post, I want to share more of Arles than its summer spotlight. I took the train from Marseille on a Sunday morning at the beginning of December. The journey was about an hour. I arrived in town on time for lunch. The weather was mild and the sun was out; you could still eat outside. The first thing you will see, walking to town from the station, is the large, imposing River Rhône. It is on the outskirts of the old town.

A Stroll Through History

Arles is a UNESCO World Heritage site; it boasts an array of history that dates back to Roman times. A visit in quieter times, like December, reveals a different city. It’s quiet, feels authentic, and bathes in timeless history.

Once you are in the old town, head to the majestic Roman Amphitheatre (Arènes d’Arles). This iconic arena, once a venue for gladiatorial combat, is well preserved. It exudes a majestic presence, especially in the crisp winter light.

• The Roman Theatre: A short walk from the amphitheatre, it is a quiet place to reflect.
• The Church of St. Trophime has a Romanesque façade and cloisters. They make it a peaceful sanctuary in the heart of Arles.
• The Musée des Beaux-Arts Réattu is in an ancient prieuré of the Knights of Malta. It has permanent exhibits of photography, paintings, and sculptures.

• The Vincent van Gogh connection Arles was a major hub for Vincent van Gogh. He went there to find the typical Provence light. He stayed for over a year and produced 187 paintings and drawings. His friend, the painter Paul Gauguin, joined him in Arles. Unfortunately, you won’t find any of Van Gogh’s paintings in Arles’ permanent collection. The house where van Gogh lived doesn’t exist anymore either. You can visit the Fondation van Gogh, which is a museum with the purpose of educating about Vincent’s art. Head to the café du Forum, which still reflects the time when Vincent painted it after its restoration. December: A Time for Reflection July’s vibrant energy fills Arles. In December, you can explore its quieter, more introspective side. The streets, often crowded with summer festivalgoers, are quieter in winter. This allows you to discover the city at your own pace.
  • Markets and Local Life: December is the season of Provençal Christmas markets. The Arles market is smaller than some nearby ones. But, it offers local produce, crafts, and treats like calissons and nougat
  Photography Inspiration in Winter If you love to travel with one or more cameras like I do. Arles in December is a completely different muse. I love to photograph in winter light. The sun is at the best angle for diffused and soft light. Perfect to enhance the textures on the walls or the shabby paint on washed out shutters. The old building’s wall colours mesmerised me. They were in ochre, terracotta, and a warm yellow. The light gave them a perfect pastel hue.

• Practical Tips for Visiting Arles in December
  1. Dress in warm clothing: Provence’s winters are milder than those in northern Europe. But the mistral wind can be chilly. So, wear layers.
  2. Plan for Shorter Days: Use the earlier sunsets to enjoy a cozy dinner in one of Arles’ restaurants.
  3. Check Opening Hours: Some attractions and shops may have shorter hours in the off-season.
  A Different Side of Arles I love to visit places out of the height of the tourist season, and that often means during the cooler months. The vibe is different, but don’t let it put you off. The light is gorgeous. You won’t have to queue for ages to visit attractions or find a table in a restaurant. You will have more chance to photograph the town by wandering. You won’t be disturbed by a horde of tourists. Where to Stay and Eat in Arles Though December is quieter, Arles still offers charming places to stay and eat. They will make your visit unforgettable. Here are a few recommendations: Where to Stay and Eat in Arles Though December is quieter, Arles still offers charming places to stay and eat. They will make your visit unforgettable. Here are a few recommendations: Where to Stay
  1. Hôtel Jules César Arles – A luxurious option, this boutique hotel is in a former Carmelite convent. It blends modern amenities with historical charm. Its central location makes it perfect for exploring Arles’ highlights.
  2. Le Calendal is a cosy hotel next to the Roman Amphitheatre. It has a warm atmosphere and an on-site spa. Ideal for those looking to relax after a day of exploration.
  3. Maison Volver: A stylish, colourful guesthouse that exudes a home-away-from-home vibe. Its friendly hosts and central location make it a favourite for visitors seeking an intimate experience.
  Where to Eat
  1. L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel is a Michelin-starred gem that celebrates local, seasonal ingredients. Foodies will love the innovative dishes here. They offer a true taste of Provençal cuisine with a modern twist.
  2. Le Plaza La Paillotte is a cozy bistro offering hearty, traditional dishes. Try the daube de taureau. It’s a local dish of slow-cooked bull meat in a rich wine sauce.
  3. Brasserie Les Ateliers – Restaurant Arles is a fancier place. It has a wide variety of dishes. It’s a good place to go for a special occasion.
  4. Le Petit Arles is a small restaurant. It has a good reputation for its traditional French cuisine. It’s a great place to go for a quick and affordable meal.
  Make the Most of Your Visit
  • Transportation: Arles is walkable. A car is not needed unless you want to explore the countryside.
  • Day Trips: If you have extra time, visit nearby places. Consider the Camargue, Avignon, or Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
  • Capture the Light: Don’t forget your camera or smartphone. December’s soft light and fewer tourists make for great photos.
  Arles in December is an invitation to slow down and savour the beauty of this historical gem. The city’s Roman ruins, local food, and warm, yellow-walled streets will inspire you. They will make you want to return. Ready to plan your winter escape to Arles? Book your stay early, and prepare to uncover a side of the city few get to experience! PS, after visiting Arles, I have to admit that I love it even more than Aix en Provence. What do you Think?