A trip to Prague has been on my wish list for many years. I remember my first trip after the Iron Curtain fell, when the city still had communist stigmas. I stayed in a hotel on the outskirts. It felt like a youth hostel, they served breakfast in a large dining room with tables covered in white paper cloths and orange plastic chairs. The ladies dressed in white blouses and caps pushed trolleys through the room with white cups and coffee thermos .The grin on their faces told you they weren’t happy to work here and see western tourists. This was the first trip on my own. It was summertime and I would spend most of my days outdoors walking the city in an endless search for its history. I was curious to understand the 1968 revolution and get a sense of the city and the people who made it.
For my last trip, I was traveling to Prague on a 7 am train from Berlin Hauptbahnhof direct to Prague, the journey took 4 hours. I love train travel; itโs slow and lets you wander through the snowy landscapes. I passed through Dresden, another city on my wish list, and promised to stop by someday.
Day One
I arrived in Prague around lunchtime. The ground was wet and covered with sleet. I pushed my suitcase through the cobbled streets, searching for my hotel. The town was busy with tourists groups following their guide. I dropped my bags at the hotel and searched for lunch. I found a cafรฉ that served fresh juices and salads, enough to satisfy my hunger. It started snowing in the afternoon. It was so cold that I tucked my hands in the pockets to walk to Charles Bridge and The Prague Castle. I took some shots on Charles Bridge planning for my next day photoshoot. The bridge was crowded. I had planned an early photoshoot close to sunrise to avoid the crowd. Somehow all the tourists I saw in town earlier had gathered towards Charles Bridge. I continued uphill through Mala Strana and towards the castle. The Prague Castle Hradฤany is one of the oldest in the world, the highlights include:
- St. Vitus Cathedral is aย Gothic masterpiece with remarkable stained glass windows.
- Old Royal Palace: Where Czech monarchs resided
- Golden Lane: Colourful streets where castle guards and artisans lived. House No. 22 was where Franz Kafka lived during the First World War.
- Changing of the Guards takesย takes place in the first courtyard of Prague Castle at 12:00 daily.
I walked back to Charles Bridge to explore the Mala Strana district. This baroque neighborhood feels distant from the busy Old Town. Visit the Wallenstein Garden, open from April to October, known for its “dripstone” wall and peacocks. Also, check out the Church of St. Nicholas, one of the finest baroque churches in Europe.
After exploring Malรก Strana, head to Kampa Island, one of Prague’s hidden treasures. This quiet artificial island is separated from Lesser Town by a narrow canal called “Devil’s Stream” (ฤertovka), which was lined with water mills. Crossing the small bridges onto the island, you’ll feel as though you’ve uncovered a secluded part of Prague away from the crowds.
Kampa Island includes:
- Kampa Park is aย green space with views of Charles Bridge and the Vltava River. .
- Kampa Museumย is housedย in a former mill. This museum features an excellent collection of Central European modern art, particularly works by Frantiลกek Kupka and other Czech abstract pioneers.
- Sova’s Mills:ย The historic buildings housing the museum.
- The Lennon Wall:ย A short walk from Kampa Park leads to the famous Lennon Wall, which has changed a lot since I first saw it. The wall became a symbol of peace and freedom during Communist rule in the 1980s when young Czechs covered it with a portrait of John Lennon. Today, the wall has evolved beyond its original painted form and is now covered with colorful stickers alongside traditional spray-painted messages and artwork.
Day 2 – A photoshoot
I met with Ayaka, a Czech National Ballet dancer. The photoshoot doesnโt feature her as a dancer, but as a celebration of her pregnancy. Despite the cold temperature, it was nearly 0ยฐC, Ayaka was smiling, excited about the shoot. She wanted portraits with Prague in the background and shots celebrating her baby bump. We started on Charles Bridge; I was trying to isolate my subject from the crowd while featuring the bridge. You could start shooting at 5am on that bridge and still not be alone. This is the type of challenge I enjoy during a location photoshoot, but my aim was to move quickly between locations for Ayaka not to get too cold.
After Charles Bridge, we walked down to Kampa to use the baroque-style architecture with yellow walls and paved streets as a background for the portraits. I asked Ayaka to walk towards the camera. I used the Lennon Wall and the painted baroque house as the backdrop.
We wrapped the shoot, said goodbye.
Day 3 – The Jewish Quarter
Morning: Jewish Quarter (Josefov)
A short walk from Old Town Square lies Josefov, Prague’s historic Jewish Quarter. Visit the beautiful Old Jewish. Explore the synagogues including the Spanish Synagogue with its Moorish interior. The Jewish Museum offers a collection documenting the history of Czech Jews.
Don’t miss The Old-New Synagogue, Europe’s oldest active synagogue, dating back to the 13th century.
Afternoon: Vyลกehrad
Take a metro or a riverside walk to Vyลกehrad, an ancient fort overlooking the Vltava River. This complex, less crowded than Prague Castle, contains the neo-Gothic St. Peter and Paul Basilica and a cemetery of famous Czechs. The views of Prague from the ramparts are impressive and offer a different perspective than the castle.
Hidden gem: Cafรฉ Savoy, an elegant cafรฉ. Their pastries and hot chocolate are exceptional.
Prague was a gorgeous setting for a destination photoshoot. It’s always a delight to combine a photoshoot with a city break.
Prague captivated me with its blend of history, culture, and modern. Below is a gallery of my tour around Prague.
Where to Stay and Eat in Prague
Prague offers accommodation options for every budget and preference. Here are some recommended places to stay in different areas of the city:
Old Town (Starรฉ Mฤsto)
- Hotel Darย – A budget hotel offering rooms in the historic centre. Its location makes it perfect for exploring the Old Town on foot..
- Hotel U Princeย – Located directly on Old Town Square with a rooftop restaurant offering spectacular views of the Astronomical Clock.
- Ventana Hotel Pragueย – Luxury boutique hotel in a former palace with spacious rooms and excellent service.
- Hostel Prague Tynย – Budget-friendly option right in the center with clean dormitories and private rooms.
Lesser Town (Malรก Strana)
- Alchymist Grand Hotel & Spaย – Opulent baroque-style hotel in a 16th-century palace with a spa.
- Little Town Budget Hotelย – Affordable apartments and rooms in a historic building near Prague Castle.
- Hotel Waldsteinย – Mid-range hotel in a renovated 14th-century building with a peaceful courtyard.
New Town (Novรฉ Mฤsto)
- Dancing House Hotelย – Contemporary rooms in Prague’s iconic architectural landmark.
- Mama Shelter Pragueย – Trendy, colorful design hotel with a lively restaurant and reasonable prices.
- Hotel Julianย – Comfortable mid-range option with a rooftop terrace offering castle views.
Vinohrady (For a Local Experience)
- Le Petit Hotel Pragueย – Charming small hotel in an art nouveau building in this upscale residential district.
- Mamaison Residence Downtownย – Apartment-style accommodations perfect for longer stays.
Where to Eat and stay in Prague
Traditional Czech Restaurants
- Mlejniceย – An authentic Czech restaurant in the Old Town serving traditional dishes in a rustic space decorated with old mill equipment. Try the goulash, svรญฤkovรก (marinated sirloin) served with freshly baked bread. The portions are generous and prices are reasonable. Come early as the restaurant doesnโt take reservation and is often fully-booked. The kitchen closes at 9am
- U ล pirkลฏย – Family-run establishment serving traditional Czech cuisine in wood-paneled interior reminiscent of an old Czech pub. Their roast duck with red cabbage and dumplings is a standout dish, and they offer several excellent Czech beers on tap.
- Lokรกl Dlouhรกรกรกย – Perfect Pilsner beer and classic Czech dishes made with high-quality ingredients.
- U Pinkasลฏย – Historic pub serving Pilsner Urquell since 1843 with a lovely beer garden.
- U Modrรฉ Kachnickyย (The Blue Duckling) – Upscale Czech cuisine specialising in game meats.
Cafรฉs and Casual Dining
- Cafรฉ Venueย – Modern cafรฉ with an artistic vibe offering excellent coffee, fresh pastries, and light meals in a bright, minimalist space. it’s a perfect spot for breakfast or a relaxed lunch. They also serve delicious homemade lemonades and have a good selection of Czech wines.They also cater for gluten free.
- Cafรฉ Savoyย – Elegant cafรฉ with neo-Renaissance ceiling serving breakfast all day and Czech pastries.
- Cafรฉ Louvreย – Historic cafรฉ once frequented by Kafka and Einstein, serving traditional cafรฉ fare.
- Sisters Bistroย – Gourmet open-faced sandwiches (chlebรญฤky) – perfect for a quick lunch.
- Naลกe Masoย – Butcher shop with counter service offering excellent Czech-style burgers and meat dishes.
